Ocean of delights in sub-tropical gem
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by Norman Smith
What's black, incredibly ugly and a joy to
savour?
It's an espada, or scabbard fish, a very odd and
fierce-looking creature found in the waters around Madeira. Cooked
in batter and served with fried local banana, it's just one of the
many delights to be found in this sub-tropical gem set in the
Atlantic, 500 miles west of Africa.
The island has the appearance of a mountain range
condensed into an area only 35 miles long and 13 miles wide, small,
but extremely deceptive.
In February this year, freak weather claimed lives, caused
enormous damage and cast a blight on the tourism that is so
important to the economy in this semi-autonomous region of
Portugal.
I went a few weeks afterwards and, unless someone pointed
it out, there was little sign of devastation.
The islanders got together to deal with the mess. In
short, it's business as usual in Madeira.
It has a (usually) pleasant year-round climate with
temperatures ranging from about 15 to 25 degrees C. The people are
friendly and there is rarely a language problem.
The volcanic origins of Madeira have left rich soil that
produces all sorts of fruit, and flowers seem to grow everywhere, a
kaleidoscope of colours that has inspired magnificent gardens and
an annual festival attracting visitors from all over the
world.
You won't find wild nightclub life and lager-fuelled
beach parties here. In fact, there are no beaches to write home
about - an artificial one with sand imported from Morocco and a
small natural stretch of black sand. Having said that, there are
other places to take a dip in the sea, particularly along the north
coast.
For the dedicated beach-goer, the other inhabited island,
Porto Santo, offers more than five miles of sand. You can get
15-minute flights there or take a ferry for a crossing of just over
two hours. Madeira is not entirely without nightlife, mainly in
Funchal, which even has a casino, but eating out seems to be a
leading pastime.
There are plenty of eating places, from village cafes to
something grand, and in balmy weather, which is a large part of the
time, you can dine alfresco. While most of Madeira's landscape
varies from a few gentle slopes to the precipitous, there are a
some more level areas and even room for two top golf courses. Horse
riding, tennis and deep sea game fishing are among other sport
choices although the main attraction for many visitors is walking -
exploring the rugged, lush beauty of the island.
But if you fancy a more extreme form of transport, try one
of the wood and wicker sledges that clatter down from the town of
Monte, with its superb gardens, to the old part of Funchal. Two
'drivers' control the contraption, using rubber soles on their
boots as brakes. A relic of the island's history, it's now a
holiday thing.
Funchal is a bustling, big town in a tiny space, with busy
shops, cafes, restaurants, a colourful market and a wealth of
historical sites.
If you are shopping, wicker work, lace and embroidery are
among traditional things to go for.
There is holiday accommodation all over Madeira, but
much of it is in Funchal, ranging from small bed and breakfast
places to luxury hotels and rather splendid quintas - former
mansions and villas that have been converted to cater for
discerning visitors.
I treated myself to a bit of pampering in the spa at the
Quinta das Vistas - sheer indulgence. What's to beat this, I
thought - then we were off to something else.
There is just so much to see and do in a beautiful part of
the world that has attracted the likes of Christopher Columbus, who
was so taken that he married the grand-daughter of the first
governor of Porto Santo.
Wednesday, April 28 2010
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